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  India » Indore
      City Guide





A gift from Peshwa Baji Rao to his subedar Malhar Rao Holkar in 1732, Indore was the jewel in the crown of the Holkars. Indore inevitably conjures up the name of Ahilya Bai who had single-handedly contributed to the city s fame and prosperity and to this day, the people of Indore hold their queen in great reverence. If you want to relive the bygone splendour of this city, just take a walk down the famed corridors of Lal Bagh Palace, which was an attempt to replicate Louis XIV s Versailles extravaganza.

Recently declared a heritage city, the place exists as a happy blend of historical past and emerging modernity. The busy office routine of modern-day Indore has not been able to quell the undying love for leisurely stroll down the Sarafa Bazaar in the evening.You can catch the peolple in their elements - eating, drinking and making merry , after a hard day s work.

While in Indore, escape to enchanting Mandu, savour the mouth-watering namkeen snacks and befriend the nice, easygoing people - and that will make your day in this khatta-mitha city!

 




Air
IA flies daily from Mumbai and Delhi with stopovers at Bhopal and Gwalior. Jet has daily flights from Mumbai and Delhi, and Sahara  flies thrice a week from Delhi with a stopover at Bhopal.

Rail
An important railhead in central India, Indore is linked with Delhi, Mumbai, Jammu Tawi, Calcutta, Cochin and Jaipur with good express trains. Metre gauge routes connect Indore with Ajmer, Chittorgarh, Khandwa and Kachiguda. While the fast Intercity Express runs between Indore and Bhopal, shuttle services operate to and from Ujjain and Mhow. Railway station: Near Gandhi Hall, in the heart of the city, it s easily accessible from the main hotels by cheap local transport.

Road
Indore is well connected to Mumbai (602 km), Agra (606 km), Gwalior (486 km) and Ahmedabad (384 km) by the Agra-Bombay Road (NH 3) that runs through the city. Apart from the MP State Transport Corporation, the state roadways of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Rajasthan also operate services to all the nearby cities like Vadodara (410 km), Jaipur (600 km) and Udaipur (390 km). Bus stands: Sarvate Bus Stand  near the railway station is the most important hub for GSRTC services. Rajasthan state transport buses depart from Gangwal Bus Stand, 3 km west along Jawahar Road towards the airport. To avail good private services, you need to go to the Indira Complex Bus Stand near the Navlakha Chauraha.


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Climate
A moderate climate with the summers (April-June) ranging from 40°C to 27°C and the winters (September to March) varying from 30°C to 15°C. Medium rainfall occurs in the months of July through September.

When To Go
Throughout the year, but the winter months are more pleasant.

STD Code
0731


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Lal Bagh Palace
Undoubtedly the most magnificent legacy of the Holkars, the Lal Bagh Palace took 35 years to build. It was finally completed under Tukoji Rao Holkar III in 1921. While the gates were modelled on those at Buckingham Palace and reportedly shipped from England, the lavish interiors of the palace match the opulence of the Versailles. Embellished with Belgian glass windows and Persian carpets, Greek mythological relief and Italian marble columns, it is one of the grandest royal residences anywhere in the country. During regal receptions, food was served from the royal kitchen that was built on the opposite bank of the river and was linked to the palace by a well-lit underground tunnel! While coming out of the palace grounds don t forget to peep into the once famous rose garden.

Rajwada
The erstwhile residence of the Holkar rulers, it stands in the heart of the city as a silent witness to ravages of time. This magnificent mansion was built between 1818 and 1833 in a beautiful blend of Muslim, Maratha and French styles and boasts of the only seven-storeyed gateway in the country. While the lower floors of the palace were made of stone, the upper ones were made of solid wood, making them an easy target for the numerous fires that eroded its splendour. Now used for art exhibitions and classical concerts, the only portion of the old palace that survives intact is the façade.

Bada Ganpati
Drop in to see what is arguably the largest permanent Ganesh idol in the world, measuring a good 25 feet from crown to feet! Shri Dadheech of Avantika (Ujjain) had dreamt of this temple and built it in 1875. Although the frame is made of precious metals, the idol itself has been moulded out of a bizarre mix of bricks, limestone, gur (jaggery), mud from the stables of elephants and horses and the holy soil and water from the tirths of Ayodhya, Mathura, Maya, Kanchi, Kashi, Avantika and Dwarka!

Krishnapura Chhatris
A unique example of Holkar architecture, the graceful stone cenotaphs or chhatris stand on the banks of the Khan River, right in the heart of the city. Erected to mark the cremation spots of the three later Holkar rulers and their families, these chhatris present a brilliant sight when lit up against the night sky.

Kanch Mandir
From doorknobs to the life-like paintings, everything in this temple is laid in glass. Built in the early twentieth century by the late Seth Hukumchand, this Jain temple is an architectural wonder and a must-see on your Indore trip.

Gandhi Hall
Originally called the Edward Hall, this imposing structure of sivni stone was built in 1901 and survived as an authentic example of British architecture. The large clocks on all four sides of the tower and domes on the four corners take on a magical glow when lit up at night. At present, the hall is used only for social and cultural functions.

Khajrana
Ahilya Bai, the most famous queen of the Holkar dynasty, built this temple for Lord Ganesh and to this day the people of Indore believe in the wish fulfilling powers of the presiding deity. The Dargah of Nahar Sayed nearby is believed to be the place where his headless body is buried and is an important pilgrimage for Naita Muslims .

Indore Museum
Situated on the main Agra-Mumbai Road, the Indore Museum (Tel: 0731-495 417) is a treasure trove of exotic Parmar sculptures from Hinglajgarh apart from a wonderful collection of old coins and weaponry.

Annapurna Temple
With its decorative gateway and ornate sculptures, the Annapurna Temple, near the Dussera Maidan, reminds you of the Meenakshi Temple at Madurai. Apart from the principal deity Annapurna, the temple also has the shrines of Kal Bhairav and Hanuman. The Padmasana position of Vishwanath here is one of the rarest sights in India.


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Mhow (23 km)
The name itself derives from Military Headquarters of War and the place was supposed to have been the war management centre of the British during the Second World War. It now houses one of the country s most prestigious defence training establishments laid out amidst beautifully landscaped surroundings.

Dewas (36 km)
It was Pandit Kumar Gandharv, one of the greatest exponents of Hindustani Classical music, who put Dewas on the cultural map of the country. But with the maestro not around anymore, the beautiful Chamunda Devi Temple perched on top of the Devi Vashini hill is undoubtedly the next best thing about the place.

Patalpani (36 km)
On the way to Mhow, it is the site of a scenic waterfall that plunges from a height of 150 ft into a kund. It is popularly believed that the kund is so deep that it reaches Patal or the mythological nether world - hence the name.

Ujjain (60 km)
The capital of Raja Bhoj, revered as a centre of learning under Vikramaditya, and celebrated as the city of Kalidas, Ujjain seems to have been there since the beginning of time. Not surprising that it is also one of the sites of the Kumbhmela. A day s trip from Indore, don t miss out on the famous Mahakaleshwar Temple in Ujjain.

Omkareswar (77 km)
A little island at the confluence of the Narmada and Kaveri rivers, the place is famous for the temple that houses one of the 12 jyotirlingas in India. It is an important site of pilgrimage for Hindus.

Mandu (90 km)
Dating from the 10th century, Mandu was the fort capital of the Parmars. The fort is probably the largest in India (perimeter 82 km) and houses a wealth of architecture. Go there when it rains in the plateau and the mystique of Mandu -haunted by the romance of Rani Roopmati and Baj Bahadur - will cast its spell on you.

Maheswar (91 km)
Mahishmati is how modern Maheswar occurs in the ancient epics, later made famous by Ahilya Bai as her capital. This also is the place where you get the famous Maheswari sarees, known for their unique weave.


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Indore offers an exotic booty for the discerning shopper and here is where you should hunt for the best buys :

Ada Bazaar: Wide varieties of glass and lac bangles.
Sarafa: Famous for excellent silver and gold jewellery.
Bajaj Khana Chowk: For traditional ghagras, beadwork, khari painting and safas (turbans) and zari gota work.
Marothia Bazaar: Apart from a variety of utensils in copper and brass, this is a must-visit on your first trip to
Indore for the sheer display of ceremonial accessories.
MT Cloth Market: The largest wholesale cloth market in central India.
Bazaars apart, take your pick from the numerous state emporia:
Mrignayani, Kishanpura, 165, MG Road: Chanderi, Maheshwari and Kosa sarees, and wonderful metalwork from Bastar.
Avanti, 507, MG Road: Sarees and fabulous dress material.
Roopmati and Upica, MG Road: More sarees and textiles.


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